This short rib ragu tastes like it’s been simmering all day, but thanks to a pressure cooker it’s on the table in under two hours. Rich, slow-cooked beef that falls apart into a glossy, deeply savoury sauce, served with pasta and plenty of Parmesan. Mine was a freezer-raid supper, made with stock, soffritto and short ribs all straight from the freezer, which is exactly the kind of cooking I love: using what you have and turning it into something special.
Short rib is one of the best cuts for ragu. It’s well marbled and has plenty of connective tissue, which breaks down under pressure into meltingly tender meat and gives the sauce a silky body. The bones add even more depth. Browning the ribs well is where the flavour starts, so take your time. Do it in batches if needed so the pan doesn’t get crowded, and aim for a deep golden crust on every side.
The soffritto of onion, carrot, celery and fennel forms the base of the sauce. The fennel isn’t traditional, but it adds a gentle sweetness that works beautifully with beef. If you’re short on time, a frozen soffritto mix is a brilliant shortcut, and it’s worth batch-chopping your own to keep in the freezer. Cooking the tomato paste for a couple of minutes before adding the stock takes away its raw edge and deepens the flavour. Scrape up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pot as you add the stock. This adds flavour and also helps prevent a burn warning on electric pressure cookers.
Once the beef is cooked, lift it out and reduce the liquid on the sauté setting until it’s rich and glossy. Skim off any excess fat, remove the bay leaves and rosemary stalks, then shred the beef, discarding the bones and any gristle, and stir it back through.
Egg pasta is a lovely match, with a little more protein and a silky texture that holds the sauce well. Pappardelle or tagliatelle are ideal. For the best result, toss the pasta in the ragu with a splash of pasta water before serving.
No pressure cooker? Cook it in a covered casserole in the oven at around 160°C for three to four hours, until the meat falls off the bone. This ragu also freezes brilliantly for up to three months, making it perfect for batch cooking, Sunday suppers and easy dinners for friends.
recipe
Servings:
4 as a main
Cook time:
Ingredients
2 onions
3 carrots
3 sticks celery
1 bulb fennel
1kg short rib
2 tbsp tomato paste
500ml chicken stock
2 sprigs rosemary
3 bay leaves
Olive oil, salt and pepper
Pasta and Parmesan, to serve
Method
1. Finely dice the vegetables (or use a frozen soffritto mix).
2. Set the pressure cooker to sauté on its highest setting.
3. Season the short ribs and brown well on each side, then remove.
4. Add 1 tbsp olive oil and the soffritto and cook until soft.
5. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, then add the stock.
6. Return the short ribs with the herbs and pressure cook on high for about an hour.
7. Once the pressure has released, lift out the ribs. Switch back to sauté and reduce the liquid by half.
8. Meanwhile, remove any fat and gristle from the beef and shred it. Return to the pot and keep warm.
9. Cook the pasta to packet instructions and serve with a sprig of rosemary and Parmesan.